Arrival to Vegas & Valley of Fire State Park
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Getting There - Although the St. George Airport is closer to Zion, I actually recommend taking an early flight into Las Vegas. Although I am not a fan of this airport, doing so allows you to take a drive through Valley of Fire State Park which is a must-see geological wonder.

Pick up your rental car at the airport or use a service like Turo and head straight for the I-15 North out of the city.

Lunch – From I-15 North, I recommend heading past the first main turn off to Valley of Fire, and instead taking the Nevada 169 exit which goes through Overton and Moapa so you can stop for a bite to eat. There are no restaurants once you leave Vegas and finding a place anywhere near the airport or downtown before heading out of town is always frustrating fighting the crowds.

Heading into the park this way allows for a quick stop at Cablp in Moapa Valley (pronounced Ca-blip), a cute little roadside diner that is the creation of the legendary magician Criss Angel. The acronym stands for “Chris Angel’s Breakfast, Lunch and Pizza.” 

Visit Valley of Fire State Park After lunch head straight into Valley of Fire State Park located about 10-15 minutes away. Be sure to stop for a photo-op by the entrance sign before paying the $15 entrance fee. This park is well worth a stop.

Valley of Fire is best known for its steep winding roads through fiery red Aztec sandstone hills and cliffs past unique outcrops and rock formations that create a dramatic contrast up against its gray and tan limestone rock. There are endless panoramic views and vistas, balanced rocks, beehive shaped rocks, tons of hiking trails and petroglyphs. It is one of my all-time favorite scenic drives. 

Since you might be eager to get to Zion, here’s what I recommend seeing:

‍Visitor’s Center – The Visitor’s Center will be your first main stop. As visitor’s centers go, it’s not super impressive but still fun to explore for a quick 10-minute stop to learn about the park’s history. Plus, it has nice bathrooms.

As you exit the Visitor Center turn right onto the main road then take your very first, almost immediate right onto Mouse’s Tank Road/White Domes Road which will head up the main canyon. This is where you will find the best lookout points, hiking trails, and unique geological formations.

Petroglyph Canyon via Mouse’s Tank – About 1.2 miles down, on the right side, there is a well-marked parking lot for Mouse’s Tank. This is an easy 1-mile hike that takes about 1 hour to complete. Here you can find interesting petroglyphs and two potholes used by the Southern Paiute Indian Little Mouse who hid in the area from the law in the 1890s, hence the name.

Fire Wave – Next on the list toward the end of the road is the parking lot for the hike to Fire Wave. The hike to Fire Wave is approximately 1.5 miles roundtrip and it is easily accessible (unlike its counterpart in Arizona that requires a permit to hike). The trail takes you to a unique wave like sandstone formation in swirling shades of red, white and pink.

Additional Hikes - There are numerous hikes in Valley of Fire. Given the limited time you have, Mouse’s Tank and Fire Wave are my top choices, but you can also try the Seven Wonders Loop, White Domes, Rainbow Vista Trial, and Elephant Rock Loop Trail. I also love to find random small turn offs and hike unmarked trails which get you away from the crowds yet still provide stunning views of the park.

Once you leave Valley of Fire, head north on I-15. The further you get from Vegas, the more beautiful the landscape is. My favorite part of the drive is when you get to the Virgin River Canyon Recreation Area, a gorgeous canyon in a small slice of Arizona that you zig zag through full of towering cliffs.

Groceries – I highly recommend stopping for groceries in St. George or Hurricane. Although Open Sky provides you with a great gift basket full of gluten-free snacks in each tent, you will still want to stock up on high energy snacks and pack-and-go lunch items for picnicking.

‍Alcohol – If you enjoy a drink especially around a campfire at night, you need to know that Utah grocery stores only sell low alcohol content beer. If you want stronger beer, wine, or hard liquor, those must be purchased at DABS state run liquor stores. There is one in St. George, but I prefer stopping in Hurricane as it’s right on the way.

‍Check In – Open Sky Zion is located off Dalton Wash Road, a 3-1/2 mile well maintained dirt road that any car should be able to navigate. As you get closer to the property, it will feel as if you have left the world behind and are entering your own private paradise. The road takes you past orchards and a farm with hawks soaring above in bright blue skies with billowing clouds. In Spring, the yellow, red and purple wildflowers along the roadside are intoxicating.

Standard check-in is at 3 pm. After being greeted by a friendly host, they will escort you by golf cart to your tent where you will be shown how everything works including the outdoor lights, fireplace, firepit, heated bathroom floors and grill. Each tent will also have a guest book full of valuable information about the property, the Wi-Fi code, Black Sage’s menu and more.

‍Late Afternoon Walk – Open Sky Zion sits on 80 acres that back up against BLM land on the cusp of Zion National Park. You can hike up to the upper plateau where the property meets the Guacamole Trailhead for mountain biking or take a stroll to hoodoos that are on the property. You can also walk around the on-site pond where there is a paddleboard for guest use.

‍Dinner – On the first night after a long day of travel, I prefer staying put for dinner. This means either making a reservation at Open Sky’s onsite restaurant Black Sage with its romantic ambiance and convenience. You can even take out from Black Sage with delivery right to your tent. Note that Black Sage also serves wine and beer but in the restaurant only.

‍Evening Around the Firepit – After dinner, enjoy the outdoor fire pit and roast s’mores (complimentary) while gazing up at the canopy of stars that blanket the sky. Their Star Seeker units even have telescopes.
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Explore the National Park Via E-Bike

Sunrise – Catch the morning sunrise sipping coffee on your private patio looking out at the breathtaking views as they light up all around you. 
‍Breakfast – Open Sky has a great complimentary grab and go breakfast in the lobby including fresh breakfast sandwiches, fruit, muffins, yogurt and more. The other option for today is to pre-order breakfast through Ride Zion Adventures.

‍Ride Zion E-Bike Tour – With over 4.7 million visitors each year, Zion National Park gets extremely crowded. Most of what you will want to see is only accessible by shuttle bus or pedestrian traffic with shuttle wait times up to 2 grueling hours during the peak season. Therefore, e-bikes are the best way to see the park.

Book an e-bike tour with Ride Zion Adventures. Ride Zion will pick you up directly at Open Sky in one of its luxurious Mercedes Sprinter vans and take you into the park so you can avoid the hassle of waiting in line to get in and trying to find them. When you book the tour, you will have the option to purchase a sack lunch and/or breakfast for the tour, or you can bring your own.

When you arrive at Zion National Park, Ride Zion will provide you with everything you need including a bike helmet, warm gloves, a great assortment of snacks and even backpacks you can borrow. They think of everything. You will be given hands-on instruction on operating the e-bike and will have the opportunity to ride around the parking area until you’re comfortable. I had never been on an e-bike before taking a Ride Zion tour and it was incredibly easy. In fact, one of the women in our group had not been on a bike in over 24 years and she had no issues other than some initial apprehension that was quickly dispelled.

Your e-bike tour will start along the Pa’rus Trail. This is a paved trail that takes you away from street traffic and winds along some of the most gorgeous scenery you have ever seen as it runs parallel to the pristine Virgin River. Being on an e-bike will give you an incredible vantage point of the beauty around you that being on the shuttle does not afford.

Your guide at Ride Zion is a wealth of knowledge. You will learn about the history of the park, the geology, and all kinds of other interesting facts that you may not hear about otherwise. He may even show you a few secret spots. Your guide will also custom tailor your day around what you want to see or hike in the park, and will be flexible with your needs and desires.

Here are just a few of the things you may wish to see and hikes you might want to consider - your guide can explain more about each one.
‍Court of the Patriarchs 
Emerald Pool Trails
Historic Zion Lodge
The Grotto
Angel’s Landing
Weeping Rock
The Narrows/The Temple of Sinawava

Dinner – After spending an incredible day with Ride Zion, you will undoubtedly be hungry. Some great dining options for a late lunch/early dinner in Springdale include Oscar’s Café, Meme’s Café, Zion Pizza & Noodle Company, Bit & Spur, and Zion Brewery. After dinner, explore the town before hearing back to Open Sky.

Evening at Open Sky – One of the best things about Open Sky Zion is that after a day out in the park, you can pamper yourself with an oversized clawfoot copper soaking tub, dual headed showers, heated bathroom floors, fireplaces and even an outdoor cedar tub (not all tents). If weather permits, you can even enjoy your tent’s private outdoor shower.

As the sun begins to set, spend another great evening around your outdoor fire pit reminiscing about the incredible time you had with Ride Zion. Stay up late laughing, talking, and gazing up at all of the stars you can see in the incredibly dark evening sky. Nights at Open Sky are magical.
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Rock Scrambling & Rappelling
Sunrise – Catch another incredible early morning sunrise up on top of the beautiful vista directly above Open Sky, or relax sipping coffee on your private patio staring out at the Zion landscape as the sun brings it to life.
Breakfast – Head to the lobby for your complimentary delicious grab and go breakfast while you wait for Rock Odysseys to pick you up for a day of rock scrambling and rappelling.
‍Rock Odysseys Rappelling – Book a day of rock scrambling and rappelling with Rock Odysseys’ private group tour. If you have never rappelled before, this may intimidate you but let me ease that tension. I had never been rappelling before and didn’t know what to expect. Another person in my group who had never tried it was quite literally terrified. However, both of us very quickly learned how easy it is to do and we both agreed that not only was rappelling the highlight of our trip, but we are already actively looking for places to rappel near home.

Before you leave Open Sky, be sure to pack high energy snacks or a picnic style lunch if you are doing the all-day tour, and dress in layers. You do not need to know anything about rappelling to do this. In fact, your guide will show you how to use the equipment, but you won’t have to do a thing if you don’t want to. This is a luxury excursion where you get to sit back and enjoy the thrill of rappelling rather than a rock rappelling lesson.

Our guide was Gabby, the darling owner of Rock Odyssey. Gabby took us out Kolob Terrace Road through an incredibly scenic drive that was very close in proximity to Open Sky. The scenery was stunning. In fact, just the drive alone was worth going. Upon arrival at the starting point, we hiked for about 20-30 minutes to the first rappel point. The hike had a few spots with steep ascents that required a bit of scrambling, but Gabby was amazing and incredibly patient. She has taken young children and adults in their 80s with no issues. She will go as slow as you need her to.

Once we reached the first stop, Gabby sat us all down and went over things explaining everything she was doing and demonstrating to us what we would be doing. I admit, seeing her hanging casually from the side of the rock as she spoke made me a little nervous. I wondered if I had the upper body strength to do this. For the first time all morning, a little bit of fear creeped in. However, I am here to tell you there is nothing to it. You are completely safe. Once you are harnessed in, you will be surprised to realize, you are not going anywhere and you are not using your own strength to hold yourself up or to hoist yourself down.

It is all physics. The ropes and your guide do all the work and it is insanely simple to do.
I am now completely hooked on rappelling and cannot wait to return to Zion to book another tour with Gabby. 

Lunch – If you booked the full day tour with Rock Odysseys, you will enjoy your packed picnic lunch in nature on your tour. Otherwise, you can head back into Springdale for lunch. I recommend Jack’s Sports Grill or Zion Pizza & Noodle Company. Be sure to walk around this quaint little mountain town after lunch and explore its shops and art galleries.

Late Afternoon Walk – After lunch and before dinner is a great time to explore Open Sky’s property. Hike to the upper plateau where the property meets the Guacamole Trailhead. My last hike up there, I actually saw slack-liners practicing between the cliffs. You can also take a stroll down to the pond and relax around the water or find the trail to the hoodoos.

Dinner – This is the perfect night to experience Open Sky’s restaurant Black Sage which serves artfully crafted cuisine in a cozy atmosphere by candlelight. Be sure to make a reservation.
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Mt. Carmel Scenic Byway, Observation Point & Stargazing Zion
Day 4 is designed with no set start time in mind although an earlier start will help you beat the crowds. The day will be spent driving Mt. Carmel Scenic Drive to the East Entrance of the park and hiking to Observation Point with views that rival Angel’s Landing but without the crowd or need for a permit. It is also a less strenuous hike that most people can do.
Be sure to pack a picnic lunch and extra water before heading out for the day and always dress in layers. Morning Coffee & Breakfast – I recommend getting up extra early so you can ease into your morning sipping coffee in a bathrobe on the private patio before visiting the lobby for Open Sky’s grab and go breakfast.
Another option is to grab coffee and a quick breakfast in Springdale at Feel Love Coffee, a quaint little coffee shop serving artisan coffees, teas, and espresso in a cute setting full of interesting artwork.

Drive Mt. Carmel Road – Many visitors never leave Zion Canyon where the trams run. They don’t know what they are missing. Today’s hike takes us down the Zion-Mt. Carmel Highway, one of my favorite scenic byways.The 12-mile switchback highway takes you through some of Zion’s most impressive landscapes and allows you to explore the east side of the park full of checkerboard mesas, hoodoos and other unique geological formations.  It’s also the best chance you have of spotting Zion’s bighorn sheep which roam the area.  Thanks to their split hooves and amazing balance, these impressive animals can stand on ledges only 2-inches wide, jump 20 feet at a time and scale up rocky mountain slopes and outcrops at up to 15 mph.

Observation Point Hike via East Mesa Trail – Once you reach the East Entrance and exit the park, continue down UT-9 East to S N Fork Road to the Zion Ponderosa Ranch turn off. Head to the property’s rock-climbing shop. From here you can catch the shuttle bus to the Observation Point trailhead for just a few dollars. You can walk to the trailhead, but I don’t recommend it. It’s a long and somewhat boring walk without much to see along the way and can be confusing to follow.

Note that in researching this hike, you will find most visitors hike to Observation Point from Weeping Rock at the bottom of Zion Canyon, a 4 mile climb with a steep strenuous ascent of over 2,000-foot. However, this route is currently closed and inaccessible. The route I have suggested is currently the only way to get there.

The hike will take approximately 3-4 hours and is easy. Depending where you start, the trail is 4-7 miles in length roundtrip. The last half mile or so will be a little tougher but almost anyone can make this hike and the views at the end are well worth the effort.  From Observation Point, you are standing over 2,000 feet above the canyon floor staring down at Angel’s Landing with a bird’s eye view of the valley below. It is amazing and the perfect spot to enjoy your picnic lunch.

Canyon Overlook Trail – If the Observation Point hike sounds like too much for you, Canyon Overlook Trail is a very short, easy alternative. However, you will need to get a very early start if you plan on substituting this hike as parking is very limited. To reach the trailhead from Open Sky, you will take Mt. Carmel Road through the park. It will take you through a very long tunnel. Immediately upon exiting that tunnel, the small parking lot will be on the right. If you are not able to find parking here, you can park on the street a little further down.The trail is an easy 0.9 mile out-and-back that takes about a half hour to complete. It is a real gem in that it’s short, fun and takes you to an incredible viewpoint with minimal effort.

The start of this trail requires climbing up dirt steps and then it’s mostly a flat hike. The trail is carved out of the sandstone walls so you will be hiking up against the rock. Certain spots have railings, and you will come to an open cool, hidden cave where you will actually be walking underneath the rock.Other Hikes – If neither of the above hikes are of interest to you or you can’t find parking at the Canyon Overlook Trail, there are a number of turnouts on the east side of the park where you can get out and explore almost anywhere you want. This is also a great spot for picnicking.

Relax at Camp – After exploring the east side of the park, head back to camp to rest and relax before heading out to dinner and an evening of stargazing.
Dinner – This is a great night to make a reservation for dinner at Switchback Grille before your stargazing tour. Although they have great steaks, chicken and fish, Switchback also has incredible vegetarian options. It’s one of the better restaurants in town.

Stargazing Zion – Book a stargazing adventure with knowledgeable astronomers through Stargazing Zion. After dinner, head back toward Open Sky. Go past the turn off for Dalton Walsh Road, and make the next right onto Kolob Terrace Road. This is the same road where you were taken for the rappelling. After mile marker 10, you will see red lights and people. Pull into the parking lot on the left and meet your guides for a dazzling evening under the stars.

Stargazing Zion puts on an incredible two-hour tour. From the parking lot, you will walk along a trail of lights that are perfectly laid out to represent each of the planets in our solar system and how they appear in the night sky. The tour is led by professional astronomers who will stop at each light to give you a brief description and history of the planet it represents. 

At the end of the road, you will find multiple telescopes set up, a coffee and tea bar, and a series of pods laid out. The pods are like giant, comfortable bean bags that you can sit or lay down on for the presentation. Each pod will have a warm wool blanket and binoculars for your use. After a brief and insightful program about the stars, you will be allowed to wander at your leisure to look through the telescopes that are set up. You will marvel at the moons of Jupiter, the Orion nebula and other astrological wonders that you never dreamed of seeing. The entire experience is incredible and the perfect way to spend the last night of your trip.  Be sure to dress in layers.  Please also note that you are allowed to bring your own drinks including alcohol.
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Departure Day
‍Unfortunately, you have reached the end of your trip. Be sure to visit the lobby for one last delicious grab and go breakfast before getting on the road heading back to the Las Vegas Airport to catch your flight home.
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But accommodations in and near parks aren’t always forgiving. Historic lodges and cabins often involve steps and staircases. Units retrofitted to meet accessibility requirements are often far from views, and to be honest, not all that appealing.  

Glamping resorts offer an alternative, with actual beds and indoor plumbing.  But as we learned on two cross-country driving trips, glamping resorts aren’t always as “glam” as their websites would have you believe. Some resemble a Motel 6, with dozens of platforms crammed together on a dusty field. Others are so close to the highway that traffic is a constant refrain. 

We’d booked Open Sky Zion for its sophistication and remote-yet-close location. We hoped it lived up to its promise.

After a day at Zion National Park, we were ready for a little peace. Each day, Zion hosts thousands of visitors each day – families and couples, serious hikers and casual walkers. All are drawn to the red rock walls of its narrow canyon and the blue heavens soaring above. Though the park encompasses nearly 150,000 acres, finding solitude requires an early start and off-the-track hikes over terrain too rugged for my husband’s titanium knees. Even the groomed path along the Virgin River proved challenging for him, and eventually we headed out of the park toward our glampsite. 

Our GPS directed us off the highway to a dusty road so discreet we initially drove past it. The dirt road led past a ravine, a pistachio orchard and a cheerful farm. The drive took us far from the highway and deep into a valley surrounded by cliffs. 

About three miles in, we came to a small gated glampsite at the base of the mesa. Set amid the sandy stones and brush were a handful of tented safari camps surrounded by juniper bushes. We’d reached Open Sky Zion.

In deference to my husband, we’d requested an accessible luxury camp. The check-in person led our car to a generous tent, named the Desert Rose, at the foot of the cliff. We peeked inside the glass door to find an airy space set with a king bed, pair of sitting chairs, coffee table and gas fireplace in tones reflecting the nature around us. It didn’t look like an accessible room – but it was. 

For baby boomers, appearances matter. We’re the generation determined to defy age. We lift weights, color our hair. We may be too old to climb the stairs, but we’ll be darned if we want our glamping camp to come with a ramp or a hand rail. 

This one looked, well, like a luxury tented camp. The walkway from the parking space to the wide terrace was gently sloped, allowing us to easily roll our luggage onto the wide stone terrace.  Inside the wood-framed tent, the plank floor sat at the same level. As we neared the bathroom, the wood gave way to dark tile – again without requiring any steps. 

Here, in the bathroom, were the only visible aids: grab bars near the toilet and a walk-in shower spacious enough for a wheelchair. A side door led to an outdoor shower tucked amid the stone – on a floor flush with the terrace. The spray soothed warm, dry skin. 

We lounged on our terrace, watching a bright blue bird flit in the juniper bush. The flat, sandy path led past the rock-lined pond and we flirted briefly with the idea of a plunge. But dinner at the on-campus, chef-run restaurant Black Sage beckoned, and soon we were sipping on pinot noir and a dish called “smoked meatloaf” that was too delicately seasoned for such a humble name.  

By the time we returned to our terrace, the full moon was shining overhead, obscuring all but the brightest stars. We snuggled into our swing, and breathed in the moment. The Milky Way would have to wait. 


***Jane Wooldridge is a winner of the Lowell Thomas Travel Journalist of the Year Award. Her forthcoming book, “Luxury in the Wild,” will be published by Frommer’s in 2025.  
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